Konkankada Center Route Climbing Diaries (1988) : First Ascent

When this impossible looking center route on the gigantic cliff was attempted in 1988, we never thought it’s going to become a benchmark in Western Ghats followed by our successful first ascent of Baan in 1986.

Somewhere in October 1988 on the day of starting from Mumbai for this climb:

We collected almost all the equipment we could manage to get, it was some 10 big army kit bags. Now the question was how to transport it to Belpada village. Those days vehicles were not going to Belpada, we had to get down at Savarne village on Malshej Ghat road and climb a small mountain col towards Belpada and then get down to the village. Milind Pathak finally arranged an Ambassador car from his friend with Chakradhar (driver) and loaded as much as we can, but again fuel for cooking and some part of ration was balance.

On the way to base, Milind revealed that he had pawned his gold chain for getting cash for this venture. As per my information, he never got it back. This was the dedication towards this project.

We had just one 35mm camera with 3 to 4 rolls and no video cameras. Also, a video shooting means a good camera and cameraman. Expenses which we cant bear or think. Plus one expert would have been engaged full time with that guy. People were doing up and down from Mumbai / Pune managing their jobs and leaves. There was a time when only 4 of us were doing all chores. Climbing, retrieval of fixed ropes and carabiners to be used again on further patches, plus preparing food and transportation water supply.

Entire Base camp was managed by Suhas Pathak (Milind’s elder brother) so efficiently that we never got any shortages, including food, tea, water supply or ration / kerosene etc. Imagine organising these things for 35 climbing days without having any means of modern communication like mobile phones, walkie-talkies etc.

About the Climbers…

Rajesh Patade, one of the Konkankada Center route lead climbers, if described in couple of words, would be fearless and fast. Anil Sabale, another lead climber was more steady and calm. There was healthy bolting competition between Milind Pathak and Rajesh Patade. आज तू किती मारलेस? 30, Ok उद्या मी 35 मारीन, तेव्हढ्याच वेळेत. Rajesh Patade was an eagle eyed person. He was excellent in pointing out loose rocks & ledges. Yes, there were many big loose slab like ledges. Few were as big as 10x25x4 feet. Telco issued a Show cause notice to him, demanding reasons as to why his services should not be terminated, so he had to return back. What a team man he was. Rajeev Dingankar got notice from Mumbai University. I had newly joined in Otis and just returned last month from Advance Mountaineering course. Team was as it must be. No one was envious. Whatever task is allocated to you was fine with all. One day you are in climbing team and second day you are in food supply team. No kichkich. Shown below are picture of climber as seen from ABC & ABC itself. Believe me it was more than a luxury to us.

Story of Vulture’s Ledge (गीधाडाची लेज) on Konkankada Center Route

Marked with the green circle in first photo, is the location of Vulture’s ledge (गीधाडाची लेज) in the middle of the overhanging rock. In the Second photo you can see how narrow that ledge is and massiveness of Konkankada all over. Climbers use to go up and come down to base camp after 4-5 days, till then stays were on ledges and hammocks hanging on the wall. This ledge was a big relief half way between the overhang climb. People visiting the fort on the top use to throw crackers and stones down the cliff. We were forced to stop climbing on weekends and go on the fort as leisure. The blue sleeping bag on the ledge (2nd Photo) was thought as plastic bag by people on the top when told that the climb is going on and the camp is on that ledge.

After first ledge, the second ledge was right in the middle of funnel (see the Y shape funnel in long photo posted earlier). There was no scope to stay at that point. It was extremely difficult to manage supply of essential food, water and equipment to lead climbers up. When Milind reached Vulture’s Ledge (गीधाडाची लेज), he thought staying arrangements can be made here, if this ledge is widened. He asked second man and one more climber to reach at this ledge, to make Vulture’s ledge comfortable (?) to stay for 3/4 persons. See the photo of Vulture’s ledge and one can imagine the comfort of vulture’s ledge. Climbing team decided that vulture’s ledge can act as a good base camp to climb the roof. They started giving call and conveyed all people below to get away from the line of falling rocks as they were clearing ledge by throwing stones/boulders to make more space. We were at first ledge, few team members were at Base Camp. Everyone started running helter scalter in trying to save themselves. Climbers started throwing stones first. Then started pushing bigger boulders with their legs. It was making a big frightening sound like a “bomb”. Finally enough space was created for 3/4 persons, which was then fenced by hammock, ropes etc. for improved safety.

Jumaring from second Ledge to the Vulture’s Ledge

I am always fascinated by this photo taken by me during our Konkankada Center route climbing project, hanging on the rope besides another climber jumaring (without belay) all the way upto the lead climbing team to relieve the tired member. By the time he reaches the ledge, he must have done at least hundred 360° turns. 400 feet of direct 8mm single static rope was used for Jumaring as well as rappelling from the point where the Overhang starts to a small ledge placed in the middle of the massive overhang (Vulture’s ledge as we use to call it as). Scary isn’t it?

Gives me goosebumps every time I look at this picture.

Climber in the photo : Rajesh Deshmukh

The Final 50 feet : 6th December 1988

Mission was about to be accomplished and history written for Sahyadri rock climbing era, most importantly without a single accident or serious injury with the grace of god.

The day was approaching, the dream come true. 6th December 1988. Feet away from reaching the top on the center route of gigantic Kokankada...!! 35 total climbing days, 144 expansion bolts, numerous pittons & pegs used with over 2000 feet of static rope line and supported by a non tiring team of over 25 experts (including climbing and support teams) with clear vision, dedication and confidence for achieving this ultimate GOAL.

First photo, on the vertical final patch just after negotiating the tough "Roof" on the center route, which you can not avoid, where one can see climber approaching the top which is now visible for the first time.

Second photo, as the lead climber was within sight by the team members who had already gathered on the top, smelling success. Climber in both photos : Late Milind Pathak

 

Late Milind Pathak was photographed feet away from reaching the top of 1400 feet gigantic Konkankada of Harishchandragad via its impossible looking Center Route for the first time. This is the first photo featuring Late Milind Pathak facing the camera in climbing position on social media and was never published before. Date : 6th December 1988

Late Milind Pathak having tea with villagers and some support team members after successfully climbing Konkankada center route on 6th December 1988 evening. This picture is taken near upper cave on Harishchandragad. Vitthal, second from right, a Pachnai resident helped us alot through out the project. He even use to do load ferry wearing the harness and jumar upto second ledge on a “dhoti”.

In photo below (L to R), villager Dhondu from Belpada, Varun Namjoshi, Milind Pathak, Suhas Pathak, Vitthal from Pachnai and his friends.

Konkankada Center Route First Ascent (1988) Climbing Route from Upper Ledge

Tried to mark Second ledge to Vulture’s ledge and to the top, climbing route. To reach Konkankada base camp site those days was like this. Get down at Savarne village at the start of Makshej ghat, then climb a mountain towards Belpada, reach the col and get down to Belpada village (1 hour). Lot of Leopard and tiger sightings in this route, especially on the banks of Kalu river and col. From Belpada to Konkankada Base Camp use to take 2-3 hours depending on load on the back and time of the day.

The entire project was executed from below camps (meaning no support was extended from top or none of the climbers came down or went up while climbing was in progress) with absolute precision, planning and hard work and the cost of this project....can you imagine? 

The entire project was completed in just Rs. 18,000/=

Narrated some stories by Rajesh Deshmukh one of the team members (one of three) who actually reached the top on 6th December (alongwith Milind Pathak and Vishvas Thatte) & Varun Namjoshi. Written & edited by me.